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Paris, France Dining

  Benoit*(18) !(3.5) $(72-160) Tel.=01-4272-2576, fax=01-4272-4568, www.esprit-bistro.com, 20 rue St.-Martin. 75004,  Lunch and Dinner daily.

  We were happy to return once again to our favorite Paris Bistro, which Chef Alain Ducasse has taken over and preserved its old world charm and appearance. It has been in existance since 1912. Even the rushed bistro service in the packed lunch time (with lots of tourists from all over the world) is to be expected. We loved the foie gras terrine with Port reduction, as well as the plump, green, poached asparagus de Provence with a sauce mousseline. We followed with filet of sole Nantua (would that we could get such fresh quality fish in San Francisco) andtender fleshed Scottish salmon. We chose an appropriate 2006 Piot Pernand Vergelesses ($55) from their decent wine selection. A special note about parking is critical. They are located on a pedestrian street, so garage parking is necessary. Parking St.-Martin can be accessed readily from rue Rivoli into rue St.-Bon directly into the garage. The entrance to Restaurant Benoit is located right across from the pedestrian exit of the garage. Don’t even think of parking in a truck loading spot, even on Saturday; the meter maids are out in force to bring in revenue all over the city.

   Cafe de Flore  *(14) !(2.5) $(30-60)Tel.=01-4548-5526, 172 Boulevard Saint Germain, 75006, Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

  Each time we return we feel the aura of history when we sit here (or in Brasserie Lipp across the boulevard), for this is where the artists and intellectuals hung-out in the early part of the 20th century. It is still a decent place to have a ham sandwich, slab of foie gras, decent cup of onion soup or adequate tarte Tatin for dessert. The shining light on their simple wine list is an outstanding half bottle of Krug multivintage Champagne for the bargain price of $140. If you’re not in the mood for a meal, just sit outside with a beer or coffee and watch the world go by. Lots of things to do in this neighborhood with terrific shopping, art galleries, churches and concerts. There is even a good undergroung parking garage across the street on Boulevard St. Germain.

Paris Region, France: Dining

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding beverage=$. Simple=appetizer + main course;
full= best available multi-course meal. France meal prices include  tax and service.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Paris Region, France

     Le Pouilly *(19) !(4.5) $(100-150) Tel.=01-6409-5664, 7, rue de la Fontaine, Pouilly-le-Fort (Senart), 77240, Vert St Denis, Environs de Paris, www.lepouilly.fr, closed Sunday dinner and Monday.
    We enjoyed the special ambiance of this wonderful old world farm house. It is so close to Paris, but seems to be in a different world of the distant provinces. The small farm town is the sort of place we loved to visit 50 years ago, and recent additions are consistent with with what existed previously. Old massive wooden beams, lighting, furniture, drapery, table settings and service are all part and parcel of the theatre of fine dining that intensifies the enjoyment of the meal. And the cuisine: old style incredible! We started with exceptional appetizers of Parmentier (potato) of Blue Lobster (with tarragon, endives, beets, watercress and a pepper cappuccino) and Poitrine de Pigeon (rum flavored pigeon breast with green asparagus and cream thereof). Sea bass braised in butter with a wheat-risotto and pesto of rocket and parmesan was astounding, as was the trilogy of veal (head, sweetbreads, and thick slice of the meat itself) with fried potatoes. The cheese course had wonderful variety, and each was just just at the right point in its development. Delicate desserts included a mille-feuille of lemon with meringue, and a violet macaroon with citrus ice cream patals. A bottle of 2002 Henri Clerc Puligny Montrachet Premier cru les Folatieres ($135) was just the right accompaniment for lunch. Lots of parking on the premises.

     Le Camelia *(19) !(3) $(100-160) Tel.=01-39-18-36-06, fax=01-39-18-00-25, http://www.lecamelia.com, 7, QuaiGeorges Clemenceau, 78380, Bougival, Environs de Paris, Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Parking is sometimes tight, so inquire inside where to park.

    This is another  delightful restaurant in the suburbs of Paris that continues the special French tradition of having the husband doing the cooking with the wife running the front of the house. From the street, this looks like just another restaurant, but inside shows clean-swept contemporary lines with lemon colored walls, banquettes, white table cloths and a Camelia motif. Delightful appetizers included salmon tartare with green asparagus, as well as cabbage stuffed with Brittany lobster bathed in a langoustine emulsion. We followed with two exquisite versions of sea bass, each with its special risotto to match; one was prepared with olives and truffles, the other with girolle mushrooms. An unusual, but marvelous tart tatin came with vanilla-bourbon ice cream, and a gratin of citrus fruits was garnished with a clementine sorbet. Bravo! A 2006 Puligny Montrachet ($125) was just the right ticket to wash it all down

Paris dining

     L’Ambroisie *(19.5) !(5) $(200-450) Tel.=01-4278-5145, www.ambroisie-placedesvosges.com, 9, Place des Vosges, 75004, Tuesday-Saturday: Lunch=12-1:30 PM, Dinner=8:00-9:30 PM.
    Our last visit for lunch was so good, we wanted to see how they scored for dinner. The exquisite 17th century town house, decorated with a few large scale, stunning paintings and tapestries, is home to some of the most gracious service we’ve experienced. All table settings and linens are of the highest quality. A veloute of watercress and scallops amuse gueule was incredible. Appetizers of frogs legs a la citronelle and daube de foie gras with a generous sauce of morelle mushrooms were world class. The fabulous seabass (escalopines de bar a l’eminance d’artichaut, nage reduit, caviar) was beautiful, but the artichokes should have been less firm in texture.  Lobster (navarin de homard) in a red wine sauce was “to die for”.  This time we were able to enjoy the great looking cheese platter; each selection was nicely aged to give just the right taste and texture. Make sure to leave room for dessert; we loved the dacquoise au praline and the tarte au chocolate. A bottle of Brut 1er de Roederer Champagne, specially made for l’Ambroisie, ($140) was the perfect accompaniment with a half bottle of a red Beaunes Bressandes for the cheese. Thanks to Michelin 3-star Chef Bernard Pacaud and his staff for maintaining such high standards over these many years. Valet parking is available.

PARIS, France dining

Astrance *18, !4, $100-300
This Michelin 3* rated restaurant is hard to reserve, because they have only 25 dining places and are only open Tuesday-Friday. You have only 3 choices for lunch: 3-course lunch surprise menu, 5-course seasonal menu or 7-course whatever-the-chef-creates for your table. Our 3 course lunch menu was more than enough to eat and began with a few delightful amuse bouches followed by a fine Brittany scallop preparation. Next came an interesting cod dish. The to-die-for guinea hen was perfection in taste and texture with crispy skin and moist, tender flesh with a marvelous sauce of vin jaune (yellow wine of Arbois) with morels. An interesting and tasty multi-course dessert followed. A bottle of Seloisse "version original" blanc-de-blanc Champagne ($185) was just the right accompaniment.

London, England Dining

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Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    London, England

     Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s *(16.5) !(3.5) $(165=Xmas dinner) Tel.=020-7499-0099 Fax=020-7499-3099, www.gordonramsay.com, 55 Brook Street, W1K 4HR, Lunch and dinner daily.
    We loved his New York (Michelin 2-star rated)  and his London (Michelin 3-star rated crown jewel) restaurants so much, that we anxiously looked forward to having Xmas dinner at his Michelin 1-star venue at the historic and fashionable Claridge’s Hotel. The ambiance of the elegant room and table settings was marred by uninformed, uncaring, poor service. We loved the roasted red leg partridge with crispy leg, confit foie gras and green bean salad appetizer, and found the delightful, home-smoked Loch Duart salmon with a beetroot, caper and grape salad to be accompanied by overly horseradished cream. Properly garnished roast turkey was enjoyed by all. Braised Gigha Island halibut with New Caledonia prawns, black pepper gnocchi, broccoli were very enjoyable, but the accompanying morel velouté sounded great but didn’t add anything. The pan-fried Anglesey bass with sauteed scallop, kohlrabi, salsify, shallots and oscietra caviar sauce would have been quite good, if an unannounced mashed potato drowned in horseradish hadn’t spoiled it. To compound the problem, instead of asking what might work as a substitution, they removed the plate and replaced the horrid original with even worse liquid-smoked mashed potatoes spoiling the lovely bass. Very pleasant desserts included Christmas pudding with creme Chantilly, passion fruit creme brulee with gianduja ice cream and caramelized banana, and cold malt chocolate fondant with mandarin ice cream. These were followed by pleasant mince pies, salty chocolates and fabulous passion fruit jellies. Ayala Brut Champagne at $86.00 was a fine accompaniment to the meal. Their dress code requests gentlemen to wear jackets and shirts. Call 2 months in advance between 10:00 AM and 3:30 PM to book a table, and be prepared to leave your credit card information (a good way to prevent no-shows), which will not be charged if you cancel properly.

     Maze (Gordon Ramsay) *(17) !(3.0) $(38-140) Tel.=(0)20 7107 0000, Faax=(0)20 7107 0001, http://www.gordonramsay.com, 10-13 Grosvenor Square, W1K 6JP, Daily= Lunch 12-2:30 PM, Dinner 6-10.30 PM.
     This is a less formal Gordon Ramsay Michelin 1* venue with pleasant service and a streamlined contemporary black and white appearance of bare walls, wooden tables and dim lights. As in the Claridge’s venue, Ayala Brut Champagne at $86.00 was a fine accompaniment to the meal. Terrific starters included: confit of wild mallard duck with raspberry gel, walnuts and compressed celery; Jerusalem artichoke velouté, duck ragout with Lincolnshire field mushrooms on olive toast; “warm Scottish breakfast” of London-cured salmon, smoked haddock risotto, egg and bacon. Ironbark pumpkin risotto with aged parmesan, chosen from the vegetarian set menu, was our favorite of the evening. “Scotch broth” of roasted halibut, black pudding, Argyle ham and turnip purée was delicious, as was the roasted monkfish bourguignon, swede (root vegetable), carrots and marrow bone. Don’t bother with the cornish red mullet, cuttlefish garkic purée and ill-fitted rabbit Bolognese. Desserts were a mixed bag. We loved the bitter chocolate délice with honey gelatine and honeycomb ice cream, as well as the Devonshire rice pudding with spiced blackberry jam, clotted cream and blackberry ripple ice cream; however, the pineapple carpaccio with coconut sorbet, seaweed croquette and Malibu lime jelly was a big disappointment. There is an adjoining Maze Grill for more standard grilled items, and it is also open for breakfast at 6:45 AM.

     The Narrow *(16.5) !(3.5) $(31-56) Tel.=020-7592-7950, 44 Narrow Street, E14 8DP, Mon-Fri.=11:30 AM-3 PM, 6-11 PM; Sat.=12 Noon-4 PM, 5-11 PM;  Sun.=12 Noon-4 PM, 5-10:30 PM.
     Our 3rd Gordon Ramsay venue, this colorful pub on the banks of the Thames River was a pure delight. Make sure to ask for a view table in the covered boathouse (with heaters in the winter) alongside the Thames river. Service was relaxed but first class in every respect. Terrific starters included: chicken liver paté with apple chutney; coarse duck and pistachio paté with apricot chutney; and rabbit terrine with quince relish. Each had just the right toast and fruit accompaniments. We loved the turkey with roasted carrots, potato and chestnuts. The glazed pheasant breast with braised red cabbage, prunes and diced granny smith apple was a delight, as was the beer battered fish with hand cut chips and mushy peas. Save room for yummy desserts of: sticky toffee pudding, caramel sauce and clotted cream; chocolate, brandy and prune slice; treacle tart with blood orange syrup and vanilla ice cream; clementine cheesecake; and our personal favorite of apple and cranberry charlotte with ginger spiced ice cream. A bottle of 2004 Meursault ($91) and a few draft beers were just the right choices for drink.

      Spaghetti House *(13) !(2.5) $(12-35) Tel.=020-7836-1626, 30 St. Martin Lane, WCN2 4ER, Lunch through late dinners daily.
     Their team runs 12 restaurants in London, and is adequate for pre- or post-theatre snacks. Try the Pappardelle anatra or spaghetti carbonara or pomodoro with draft beers.

    The Ritz for High Tea (in the Ritz Hotel) *(17.5) !(4.5) $(62-82) Tel.=020 7493 8181, www.theritzlondon.com, 150 Piccadilly, London W1J 9BR, Afternoon Tea is served in The Palm Court at 11:30am, 1:30pm, 3:30pm, 5:30pm and 7:30pm.
     TEA AT THE RITZ is an institution in itself and they are a member of the Tea Council's prestigious Tea Guild. Served in the spectacular Palm Court, a choice of several varieties of tea, finely cut sandwiches (smoked salmon, ham, chicken, cucumber, cheddar cheese and egg mayonnaise with cress), freshly baked raisin and apple scones, jam and clotted cream and a range of delicate pastries, combine to make for a quite elegant afternoon. There is a formal dress code in the public areas of the Hotel. With the exception of breakfast, gentlemen are required to wear a jacket and tie in The Ritz Restaurant, The Palm Court and The Rivoli Bar. Tables may need to be reserved at least 12 weeks in advance; on a previous visit we were unable to reserve, even 2 monthes in advance. Surprisingly, service was neither as attentive nor as informed as we would have expected. A special added touch was singing of Xmas carols sung by the Ritz Choir.

      The Guinea Pub and Restaurant *(14.5) !(3.5) $(35-74) Tel.=020 7409 1728, http://www.theguinea.co.uk/, 30 Bruton Place, Mayfair, London. W1J 6NL,  Monday-Friday= 12:30 - 3:00, 6:00 - 10:30 PM, Saturday= 6-10:30 PM.
     This colorful Mayfair area pub and restaurant is charming and lively. We enjoyed several good beers, decent steaks and interesting British pies (steak & kidney and vegetable-cheese with chestnuts). Don’t bother with the apple crumble; go for the toffee pudding or ginger spice ice cream instead..

      Hamleys, www.hamleys.com, 188-196 Regent St., W1B 5BT.
     This is not a restaurant; it is one of the most fun toy stores we have ever visited, especially just a few days before Xmas. The “Build-a-Bear” area is fabulous. Pick the bear; give it a name; dress it after you stuff it and give it to your favorite bear lover.

       Arlington House  Tel.=011-44-207-629-0021 from USA, 25 Arlington St. off Picadilly.
     We find this small building of flats in the Mayfair District to be a great location just down the block from the Ritz Hotel. There was always a taxi available when we needed one, and it’s only 2 blocks from the Green Park Underground tube station. The flats range from 1-3 bedrooms, and prices/availability vary with the season. Reservations can be made through regentsuites.com with a USA telephone=1-800-513-0010; they are also a good source of flats in other areas of London.

New England Dining

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Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)

Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

New England: Boston Area, Massachussetts

  The Blue Room *(15) !(3) $(17-53) Tel.= (617) 494-9034 , 1 Kendall Sq # B2001

Cambridge, MA 02139-1593, Lunch and Dinner daily.

  The Blue Room is a simple, comfortable place filled with students and local business people. Housed in a renovated woven hose factory, the space has bare wooden beams, brick and granite walls, and zinc-topped tables. The food is pleasant but not exceptional. We liked their simple wood grilled pizza, roasted beet-ricotta salad, grilled tuna, pan seared cod loin and wood grilled lamb rack with a side of mashed potatoes. Leave room for the apple tart and poached pears. A bottle of Pierre Morey Puligny Montrachet at $95.00 was a fine accompaniment. Service was efficient and pleasant.

  L’Espalier *(15) !(4) $(82-185) Tel.=(617) 262-3023, 774 Boylston St. in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Lunch and dinner daily.

  This is one of the most over-rated restaurants we’ve visited in recent times. The pompous “I’m doing you a favor by serving you” attitude of the wait staff is matched only by the overly fussy preparations coming out of the kitchen. The chef learned the lesson of writing a menu that sounds great; now they have to teach him to prepare dishes to taste as good as they sound. Because of the good things we heard about the place, we paid extra for the least successful lobster course of our trip. The taste of the $40.00 truffles supplement  was lost on an otherwise forgettable course. Actually, there were no dishes we could actually recommend. The one memorable saving grace of the evening was a $250.00 bottle of 2005 Jadot Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles. Decor, lighting and tableware were a class act.

  Riverbend Bar and Grill in the Newton Marriott *(14.5) !(3) $(16-46) Tel.=617-969-1000, 2345 Commonwealth Ave., Newton, MA 02666 Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner daily.

  This is an interesting venue for a relaxed, simple lunch. We specially enjoyed the back tables looking out at the river with Autumn leaves dropping and a light cover of snow on the ground. Inexpensive and tasty chowder, lobster roll, tuna salad and burgers hit the spot. Prompt, friendly service was a plus.

  Turner Fisheries at the Westin Copley Place *(17) !(3.5) $(35-95) Tel.=(617) 424-7425, 10 Huntington Avenue, Boston, MA 02116-5707, Dinner =5:30-10 PM Mon.-Sat.

  This large space with simple nautical decor is best enjoyed from a window table overlooking Copley Place for added ambiance. The wait staff is pleasant but relatively uninformed. Make sure to taste the wonderful New England clam chowder. Lobster lovers will go ga-ga over the fresh, flavorful 3.5 pound steamed Maine lobster. The hooked Gulf of Maine haddock preparation was only fair. Even the apple pie with vanilla ice cream is highly recommended. A $90.00 bottle of N.V. Veuve Clicquot Champagne went nicely throughout the meal.

The Oak Room at the Fairmont Copley Plaza  *(16) (4) $(35-105) Tel= 617-267-5300 Fax 617-867-8556 Email=theoakroom@fairmont.com 138 St. James Avenue, Boston, MA 02116, Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

  There were game trophies on the oak walls of the high ceiling dining room with plush drapes, thick carpeting, ornate chandeliers and heavily draped, well spaced tables and booths. Their specialties are Maine lobsters and thick steaks, each of which was done quite well in standard fashion. Old fashioned waiters have been around a long time, but never learned the nuances of what was on the menu; they could also be more attentive. The hotel itself was attractive and well serviced, but needs upgraded bathrooms.

New England: New Hampshire

  Weathervane Seafood *(15) !(2.5) $(15-35) Tel=(603) 893-6269, 41 South Broadway, Salem, NH, Lunch and dinner daily.

Weathervane Seafood Restaurants is a family seafood restaurant in the Northeast with 14 locations in Maine, New Hampshire, and Massachusetts. There is a simple nautical diner decor with friendly staff and one of the best steamed lobsters we found all week, though the bay scallops did not rise to the occasion. We would not hesitate to stop at their other places, if we come across them.

  

New York City Dining

http://aswelikeit.vox.com /

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)

Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

New York City, NY (Part 2)

Picholine *(18.5) !(4.5) $(92-125) 212-724-8585. Picholinenyc.com. 35 W. 64th St. between Broadway and Central Park W. Dinner nightly from 5:30.

This continues to be our favorite formal place to dine before a concert, because it’s located right across the street from Lincoln Center, and they know how to time things so that patrons get out on time to make the opening curtain. Frette linens, solid weight silver, fine china and crystal make this contemporary dining room feel quite elegant. Outstanding amuse gueules included: warm chestnut-truffle soup, beet panna cotta and gougeres with citrus oil accent. Prelude courses included: a delightful, but slightly under-cooked, warm Maine lobster with fried vanilla milk, endive and kumquats; a fabulous wild mushroom risotto with local squash and black truffle butter; and an appealing marriage of flavors and textues in the sheep’s milk ricotta gnocchi with artichokes barigoule, bottarga and parsley pistou. We can’t remember ever eating better diver sea scallops, which were garnished with sunchoke silk and a spectacular blood orange Grenobloise (sauce of browned butter, capers, parsley and pieces of lemon). A highly seasoned, fine quality grilled daurade was served with terrific eggplant blini, romanesco and Basqaise jus. Since they have the best cheese selection we’ve had in America, we couldn’t leave without a taste of each of the following perfectly aged cheeses: Robiola, St. Nectaire, taleggio, Charollain, tomme Crayeuse and epoisses with sensational breads and an accompaniment of fine dried apricots and dates. A bottle of 2005 Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet at $185.00 held up well throughout the meal. We wholeheartedly agree with the Michelin Guide’s continued 2-star rating.

  Dovetail *(16) !(3) $(38-56 for Sunday supper) Tel.=212-362-2800, dovetailnyc.com, 103 W. 77th St. at Columbus Ave., Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner nightly.

    We dined on a Sunday night, which has a stripped down selection, rather than the regular dinner menu. The spare industrial space is appropriate for the neighborhood. Bare walls are framed with brick; track lighting and wooden tables with votive candles complete the picture. Wait service is inattentive and superficial. A starter of very tasty shrimp a la plancha with a coulis of soft polenta contrasted with an impossibly salty beet tart on a pedestrian base. Main courses had the same dichotomy: a delightful panko crusted cod with lentils and farro risotto contrasted with an overly spiced, olive oil poached halibut. They serve toothsome white cheddar cornbread. A terrific apple crumble was complemented by adequate vanilla ice cream. Marinated black mission figs, vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce came with a just passable pain perdu. We enjoyed the 2006 Meursault les Cras 1er cru Buisson-Charles at a reasonable $145.00.

New York City Dining

http://aswelikeit.vox.com /

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)

Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

New York City, NY

  Alto *(19) !(4) $(41-92) Tel.=212-308-1099, 11 E. 53rd St. between 5th Ave. and Madison, http://www.altorestaurant.com/, Lunch Mon.-Fri. 12:00 Noon-2:30 PM, Dinner Mon.-Thurs=5:30-10:30 PM, Fri.-Sat.=5:00-11:00 PM.

    They just received their well deserved 2nd Michelin star. White tablecloths and elegant table settings are included in the contemporary decor. Some of the best pastas we’ve had in this country included: Tagliatelle con ragu di vitello e fonduta (thin egg pasta ribbons, braised veal ragu, parmigiano cheese), Agnolotti del plin con fegatto grasso e salvia (duck and foie gras ravioli, melted butter, sage, red wine jus) and Tortellini pasticciati con prosciutto (peasant style meat tortellini, prosciutto, tomato, Battenkill Valley fresh cream). We certainly enjoyed the Branzino con melagrana e zucca (sautéed sea bass, caramelized brussel sprouts, pancetta, acorn squash and pomegranate). Nodino di vitello con cipolline e pancetta consisted of a fabulous roasted Amish veal chop, cipollini onions, grilled endive and a superfluous pancetta cream sauce. Make sure to leave room for outstanding desserts of Souffiele di cioccolato (warm chocolate-nutella soufflé, crisp puffed rice and hazelnut anglaise) and Bomboloni (apple-filled doughnut with Calvados-caramel dipping sauce). Fine service and a comprehensive wine list (from which we chose just the right accompaniments to our dinner of Henriot Brut Rosé Champagne NV at $115.00 and a Ceretto Barolo Zonchera 2004 at $115.00) made for a delightful dinner. Chef Michael White’s group has 2 other NYC restaurants that are on our radar for dinners next time we’re in town: Convivo (Michelin 1-star) at 45 Tudor City Place and Marea (Michelin 1-star, seafood specialty) at 240 Central Park South in the old San Domenico location. 

  Bouley *(19) !(5) $(85-150) Tel.=212-964-2525, 163 Duane St. at Hudson, www.bouleyrestaurants.com, Lunch daily= 11:30-3.00, Dinner nightly 5:00-11:30 PM.

  The ambiance of their new location is amazing, like something out of a Metropolitan Opera stage set. From the aroma of apples in the antique wood and glass entryway to the arches resembling a medieval abbey ceiling, you feel transported to a more perfect world. There are large pastoral paintings and some of the lovliest floral arrangements we’ve seen. Soft indirect lighting, lots of candles, a large fireplace, elegant tableware and table linens complete the picture. The sophisticated cuisine certainly deserves their one Michelin star award. Fantastic starters with just the right balances included Japanese Hamachi with watermelon pickles, fresh wasabi and citrus-shiso dressing, as well as a porcini flan with dungeness crab and black truffle dashi (seaweed broth). Golden trumpet mushrooms were disappointingly raw and the accompanying foie gras terrine was too buttery. A perfectly roasted rouget was garnished with black olives, pickled fennel and a tomato coriander red pepper reduction. One of the best egg courses we’ve experienced consisted of an organic Connecticut farm egg with serrano ham, steamed polenta, artichoke purée, radish sprouts and a coconut-garlic broth. We certainly enjoyed our fish: line caught Chatham haddock on a corn base. The Maine day boat lobster was pleasant, but it was overshadowed by the amazing combination and dramatic presentation of fresh Washington State black cod with organic Japanese buckwheat, sunchoke cloud and black onion powder. Seared foie gras with quince purée, Agen prunes, vieux-Armagnac sauce and confit peach purée was quite fine. The only course similar to last year’s menu was a perfectly done New York State organic squab wrapped in Hudson Valley savoy cabbage and steamed with foie gras and lemon thyme. A delectable raviolini with Comté cheese and blue kale preceded our outstanding meat courses of dry-aged NY sirloin (broccoli rabe, Silamar Farm roasted onions and maitake mushrooms) and breast of all-natural Pennsylvania chicken baked en cocotte with alfalfa and clover hay, fresh fava beans and Canadian chanterelles. A plate of mind-blowing mashed potatoes came on the side. Refreshing  local strawberry and rhubarb parfait, yogurt and raspberry sorbet and strawberry granité preceded toothsome desserts of chocolate frivolous, chocolate brulée, chocolate parfait, hazelnut dacquoise, chocolate-walnut spice bread as well as praline & prune Armagnac ice creams. The wine selection was quite appropriate, and we chose a bottle of Henri Clerc 2005 Puligny Montrachet les Combettes at $240.00 as a fine companion to most courses, filling in with a glass or two of others as needed.

  Le Bernardin *(19.5) !(4.5) $(109-209) Tel.=212-554-1515, 155 W. 51st St. between 6-7th Ave., Lunch=Mon.-Fri. Dinner Mon.-Sat.

  An incredible crab amuse gueule was just the right way to begin a heavenly meal where the fish, not the chef, is the star of the plate. We have become true believers in the interesting way this Michelin 3-star rated restaurant aggregates its courses: “almost raw” included fabulous combinations of tuna (layers of thinly pounded yellowfin tuna, foie gras and toasted baguette, excessive shaved chives and extra virgin olive oil) or yuzu cured wild Alaskan salmon (endive and shaved red beet, coriander infused verjus); “barely touched” included terrific seared langoustine (mache, wild mushroom salad, shaved foie gras, white balsamic vinaigrette) and purity of ingredients in the poached, pastured egg with Osetra caviar (mariniere broth and English muffin); and “lightly cooked” visually stunning, baked lobster (white asparagus, sauce gribiche) and baked wild striped bass (corn canneloni of leeks, light Perigord sauce). Toothsome desserts of hazelnut gianduja parfait (with caramelized banana and brown butter ice cream) and a chocolate-peanut combo were followed by delectable petits fours. Frette linens, regal china and tableware, shogi screening of windows, hanging pale wooden beams, lovely floral arrangements and attractive oil paintings with maritime themes made for a warm contemporary atmosphere. Attentive service and an extensive wine list, from which we chose a perfectly balanced 2006 Henri Germain Meursault Perrieres at $240.00 made the picture complete.

  Cafe Carlyle (in the Carlyle Hotel) *(15) !(3.5) $(40-91) Tel.=212-744-1600, 35 E. 76 St. at Madison, Dinner Mon.-Sat from 6:30-7:30 PM, Music performance at 8:45 PM.

  This colorful, jazz and entertainment supper club serves an excellent torchon of Hudson Valley foie gras with fresh plum salad, huckleberry vinaigrette and toasted brioche. Main courses included a pleasant, roasted, Amish chicken from Pennsylvania (roasted artichokes, baby turnips, pommes Anna and chicken jus) and a delicious Dover sole with overly sauced accompaniments of haricots verts almondine and roasted potato medley. The warm berries crumble with vanilla ice cream finished the dinner nicely. A bottle of Roederer Brut Premier Champagne was quite appropriate for dinner and the show. And what a show it was!! Woody Allen and the superb musicians of the Eddy Davis New Orleans Jazz Band played straight through past 10:00 PM, as they  do almost every Monday night. Cover charges for performances are $75.00 at the bar, $100.00 for general seating and $150 to sit right next to the stage in the VIP area and about $10.00 higher on Friday and Saturday nights.

  Bar Boulud *(17) !(2.5) $(35-82) Tel.=212-595-0303, 1900 Broadway between 63rd and 64th St.,  Lunch Mon.-Fri.=12:00-2:30, Brunch Sat.-Sun.=11:00-2:30, Dinner from 5:00 PM nightly and open till 10:00 Sun.,11:00 Mon.-Thurs., Midnight Fri.-Sat. with cheese and charcuterie till 1:00 AM.

  This is Daniel Boulud’s homage to classical French brasserie/bistro cooking with some of the best charcuterie around; paté grand pére (coarse country paté with foie gras, truffle juice and port) and paté grand-mere (fine country paté with chicken liver, pork and Cognac) were our favorites. Follow that with some fine coq au vin, baked daurade (sea breem) or grilled sea bass, a bit of well aged cheese and memorable desserts of pear tart tatin or ile flottante with Pernod. Simple decor with closely placed tables reminds us of its French counterparts. Being located across the street from Lincoln Center makes this a perfect place for pre- or post-theater dining. Loud bar music was a negative for us.

 

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     Piccolo Paradiso *(18) !(3) $(22-70) Tel.=310-271-0300, Fax=310-271-1233 www.giacominodrago.com.  150 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, Lunch Monday-Friday, Dinner nightly.
    We found this part of the Giacomino Drago dining empire (Panzanella, Il Pastaio, Il Buco Ristorante Paninoteca, Shu Sushi, Via Alloro) on our last trip to Beverly Hills and were very pleased with the ambiance, service and cuisine. The lively, contemporary decor sparks an upbeat energy to the place. We enjoyed the beet salad and the polenta with mushrooms. Terrific pastas included tagliolini with scampi and fettuccinis Bolognese and carbonara. The branzino (sea bass) and risotto with lamb chops were wonderful. We chose a young but delightful bottle of 2004 Gaja Sito Moresco Langhe at $132 (3 times retail) to complement the dinner. Corkage is a reasonable $15 if you bring your own bottle. Valet parking is $7.00.